Assos (Behramkale), an ancient Greek city built on top of a small hill by the sea, is a less-visited village for travelers to Turkey. The obvious reason is that the village is 2 hours off the regular tour paths passing through Pergamon and Troy. For this reason, only those who are on private tours or traveling with a rental car can get to see this tiny, tiny place.
Taking the two-hour road that winds around small hills on Edremit Bay leads to Assos. Along the road, you will see many cheap and beautiful camping places right by the sea, especially around Ayvacık (not Ayvalık, a more popular destination). There are also many hotels and motels in the area, usually serving weekend travelers from Istanbul and Bursa.
Assos has only a few hotels and guesthouses since there is really no room for expansion, the steep, rocky coastline will not allow it. The temple on top of the hill is one of those places where the sunset is spectacular to watch over the Aegean Sea. Assos is one of the most romantic places in Turkey and is a great destination for a 2-3 day stay.
The most famous landmark of Assos, the Temple of Athena dates from the 6th century BC (530-520 BC). It is the only Doric temple on the Aegean coast of Turkey. The temple sits on the highest point of the hill, offering panoramic views of the Aegean Sea and the island of Lesvos (Greek island). The sunset from here is spectacular. Allow 30-45 minutes.
The acropolis includes the Temple of Athena, remains of the city walls (still impressive), a theater (not fully excavated), and agora (marketplace). The walls stretch for over 3 km. From the acropolis, you can see the entire Edremit Gulf and the island of Lesvos.
The modern village sits within and around the ancient ruins. Traditional stone houses, narrow streets, a mosque (built from ancient stones), and small shops selling local products. The village has a peaceful, timeless atmosphere.
A small fishing harbor at the bottom of the hill, about 2 km down from the village. Restaurants serve fresh seafood. You can swim from the rocky shores near the harbor. A pleasant walk downhill from the village (but you will need a taxi or car to return up).
Along the coast between Ayvacık and Assos, there are many camping sites and small beaches. Popular spots include Kadırga Beach (with cafes and sunbeds), Sivrice, and Kocakari. These are less developed than Mediterranean resorts, offering a more natural experience.
Seafood is the specialty here, especially in the harbor restaurants. Try grilled fish, calamari, and octopus. Local olive oil (from Edremit Bay) is excellent. The region is also known for its olive oil soap.
Getting there: Assos is located about 2 hours off the main Pergamon-Troy route. The nearest airport is Edremit Körfez Airport (EDO), about 45 km north (limited flights, mostly domestic). Alternatively, you can fly to Izmir (ADB) and drive north (about 2.5 hours). A rental car is highly recommended, as public transport is limited. The road winds around small hills on Edremit Bay — the drive is scenic but slow.
Getting around: You will need a car to explore the area. The village itself is small and walkable. To get from the village down to the harbor (2 km, steep downhill), you can walk, but returning up is challenging in the summer heat. Taxis are available but limited.
Best time to visit: May-June and September-October offer warm weather (25-30°C) without the peak summer crowds. July-August are hot (30-35°C) but the sea breeze helps. The sunset views are spectacular year-round. Winter (November-March) is cool and rainy; many hotels and restaurants close.
Accommodation: Options are limited. You can stay in the village (Behramkale) or down at the harbor. Village accommodations tend to be guesthouses (pansiyons) in restored stone houses. Harbor has a few hotels. There are also camping sites along the coast near Ayvacık. Book in advance for summer weekends.
If you are traveling in the region, you can visit Ayvalık and Pergamon.
Please see our tour page for all tours in this region and around Turkey.