The Hippodrome, also known as Sultanahmet Square, has been the center of the Roman Empire and Byzantium until the 10th century. It was built in AD 203 by the Roman Emperor Septimus Severus. Then it was 117 m wide and 480 m long and had capacity of 100,000 spectators. Most important monuments of Istanbul — Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque, Turkish and Islamic Arts Museum and Basilica Cistern — are located around it.
In the past, chariot races were very popular activities for entertainment. But supporting a team was not only for fun, it also reflected the political class you supported. The two major teams were the Blues and the Greens. The Blues were the middle and upper classes with orthodox religious beliefs. The Greens, on the other hand, were the lower class with radical religious beliefs. These two sides joined together against Emperor Justinianus during races in AD 532 resulting in a revolt called Nika (victory) revolt. The crowds marched towards the palace and burned the outer periphery. The revolt took days; at times it seemed that Emperor Justinianus' days were numbered. His general Narses made a Byzantine trick and was able to quash the revolts. Which trick?
It is extremely interesting to read about Nika riots as it sheds light on not only Byzantine politics but also contemporary politics. 30,000 people died in this revolt. After the revolt, chariot races were banned for a long time to come.
During the Fourth Crusade, the building of the Hippodrome was destroyed and many of the statues were looted. Some of the horse statues are in San Marco Square in Venice. After the conquest of Istanbul and the construction of the Blue Mosque, the Hippodrome lost its importance and became a place for Ottomans to raise and train their horses. Today it is called At Meydanı, meaning literally "Horse Square."
Unfortunately, many of the monuments could not stand until today; however, three of them are well preserved: the Serpentine Column, Obelisk of Theodosius, and Walled Obelisk.
The Serpentine Column was covered with a golden bowl supported by three serpent heads. The serpent heads were lost during the Crusades; however, they were found later and are now displayed at the Turkish and Islamic Arts Museum.
The Obelisk of Theodosius was brought from Egypt by Roman Emperor Theodosius I in 390 and erected near the Serpentine Column.
In the 10th century, another obelisk covered with bronze plaque was built by order of Emperor Constantine Porphyrogenitus at the other end of the Hippodrome, which is called the Walled Obelisk.
In addition, in the middle of the square, the German Fountain was built in memory of German Emperor Kaiser Wilhelm's visit to Istanbul in 1898.
The Hippodrome is walking distance from everywhere in Sultanahmet and very easy to reach by tram from Taksim (with funicular connection down to Kabataş and the tram to Sultanahmet) and other locations in European Istanbul.
If you visit the Hippodrome during Ramadan, a small marketplace is established similar to market places in other cities in Europe during Christmas. This small bazaar includes many mini shops with traditional clothes and food. It is an opportunity to buy some presents, taste samples from Turkish and Ottoman cuisines, or have your name written with Ottoman calligraphy.
Opening Hours: The square is always accessible. The Ramadan market, if held, typically runs evenings throughout the holy month.
Getting there: T1 tram to Sultanahmet stop, the Hippodrome is directly in front of you as you exit. Also a 5-minute walk from Hagia Sophia or the Blue Mosque.
Best time to visit: Early morning (08:00–09:00) for photos without crowds, sunset (17:30–18:30) when the obelisks glow in golden light and the Blue Mosque's evening call to prayer echoes across the square. The German Fountain is beautifully lit after dark.
Nika Revolt answer (the Byzantine trick): Emperor Justinianus' general Narses entered the Hippodrome with a treasury of gold coins. As the rebels cheered their chariot champions, Narses bribed the Blues' leadership — convincing them that the Greens had betrayed them. The two factions turned on each other rather than the emperor. Justinianus then sent his loyal troops to surround the Hippodrome and massacre the trapped rebels. A reminder that division is the oldest political weapon.
Obelisk of Theodosius (Dikilitaş): Originally erected at the Temple of Karnak in Luxor, Egypt, around 1490 BC. Brought to Constantinople in AD 390. Made of red granite, 25.6 meters tall. The marble base shows Theodosius I and his family watching chariot races.
Serpentine Column: Originally from Delphi, Greece, erected in 479 BC to commemorate the Greek victory over the Persians at Plataea. Three serpent heads intertwined — one is displayed at the nearby Turkish and Islamic Arts Museum.
Walled Obelisk: Built in the 10th century by Constantine Porphyrogenitus. Originally covered in gilded bronze plaques, looted during the Fourth Crusade.
German Fountain: Built in Germany and assembled in Istanbul in 1900 to commemorate Kaiser Wilhelm II's 1898 visit. A beautiful example of neo-Byzantine architecture.