Mardin is the most beautiful city in southeast Turkey. Built from honey-coloured limestone on a rocky ridge above the Mesopotamian plain, its old town is a maze of stone lanes, madrasas, mosques and churches — with a view that stretches across the plain towards Syria. Few places in Turkey feel as ancient or as atmospheric.
Mardin is also a living mosaic of peoples: Turks, Kurds, Arabs and Syriac Christians have shared the city for centuries, and the sound of the call to prayer mixes with the bells of Syriac churches. Give it a full day, and use it as a base for Midyat, Deyrulzafaran and the ancient city of Dara.
The historic core climbs the ridge in terraces. Highlights include the Ulu Cami (Great Mosque) with its Seljuk minaret, the Zinciriye Madrasa with its domed courtyard and sweeping view, and the Kasımiye Madrasa, a serene 15th-century college with a fountain and an iwan. Below the ridge, the Revaklı Çarşı (vaulted bazaar) sells soap, spices and silver, and Cumhuriyet Square is the heart of the old town at dusk.
The Mardin Museum occupies a restored late-19th-century mansion and covers the region's deep history, from Assyrian and Roman finds to Islamic art. It is a good introduction before you explore the surrounding sites.
A short drive east of the city, Deyrulzafaran (the Saffron Monastery) is a working Syriac Orthodox monastery founded in the 5th century. Its sun-worship temple, ancient chapel and courtyard are open to respectful visitors. Also in the region is the 4th-century Mor Gabriel monastery near Midyat.
Midyat, an hour east, is a Syriac Christian town famous for its silver filigree and its stone houses; the old quarter and the churches are the draw. Nearby, Dara (ancient Anastasiopolis) is a rock-cut Byzantine city with cisterns, a necropolis and a vast underground reservoir — one of the most impressive ancient sites in the southeast.
Mardin's cuisine blends Arab, Kurdish, Turkish and Assyrian traditions. Look for kaburga dolması (stuffed lamb ribs), ikbebet (a bulgur and meat dish), sembusek (stuffed flatbread), kibe and dolma, plus pistachio sweets. The old-town terraces serve dinner with the best view in Turkey.
The joy of Mardin is staying in a restored stone house in the old town — boutique hotels and guesthouses occupy former mansions, many with rooftop terraces over the plain. Book ahead in spring and autumn. See Turkey Hotels for options across Turkey.
Mardin Airport (MQM) has flights from Istanbul and Ankara. By road, Mardin is about two hours from Şanlıurfa (Şanlıurfa) and around three from Gaziantep (Gaziantep), making it an easy link in a southeast Turkey itinerary. Buses connect the city with most of the country.
One full day for the old town; add a day for Deyrulzafaran, Midyat and Dara.
Spring (April-May) and autumn (September-October). Summers are very hot and winters can be cold and wet.
Yes, the city is safe and welcoming. As with the whole region, check your government's current travel advice before travelling.
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